Every piece of cross stitch fabric has a number on the label: 11, 14, 18, 28. That number is the fabric count, and it decides two things: how big your finished design will be, and how small the squares are that you stitch into. Here is what it means and how to pick the right one.
What fabric count means
Fabric count is the number of squares, or threads, in one inch of fabric. 14-count Aida has 14 squares per inch, so you fit 14 cross stitches into every inch. The higher the number, the smaller the squares and the smaller your finished design. The lower the number, the bigger and easier to see the squares are.
How to work out the finished size
Divide the number of stitches by the count. That gives you inches.
| Design width | 11-count | 14-count | 16-count | 18-count |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 stitches | 4.5 in (11.5 cm) | 3.6 in (9.1 cm) | 3.1 in (7.9 cm) | 2.8 in (7.1 cm) |
| 100 stitches | 9.1 in (23.1 cm) | 7.1 in (18.1 cm) | 6.3 in (15.9 cm) | 5.6 in (14.1 cm) |
| 150 stitches | 13.6 in (34.6 cm) | 10.7 in (27.2 cm) | 9.4 in (23.8 cm) | 8.3 in (21.2 cm) |
Then add fabric around it: about 3 inches (7.5 cm) on every side if you will frame it. Our cross stitch calculator does all of this for you, including the hoop size.
Aida, evenweave and linen
Aida
Aida is woven in little blocks with a clear hole at each corner. One cross stitch covers one block, and you can see exactly where the needle goes. It is the fabric almost every beginner starts on, and plenty of experienced stitchers never leave it. Common counts are 11, 14, 16 and 18.
Evenweave
Evenweave is a smooth fabric of single threads, evenly spaced. You usually stitch over two threads in each direction, so the stitches come out half the count: 28-count evenweave stitched over two gives 14 stitches per inch, the same size as 14-count Aida. It looks softer and smoother, and three-quarter stitches are easier because there is a hole in the middle of every stitch.
Linen
Linen is a natural fiber with tiny irregularities that give it a lovely, old-fashioned look. It is also stitched over two, in counts such as 28, 32 and 36. It is beautiful but takes more care, so it is best once you are comfortable on Aida or evenweave.
Which count should you choose?
| Fabric | Good for | Strands | Needle |
|---|---|---|---|
| 11-count Aida | Children, big clear squares, quick projects | 3 | 22 |
| 14-count Aida | Most patterns and most stitchers | 2 | 24 |
| 16-count Aida | A bit more detail when you feel confident | 2 | 26 |
| 18-count Aida | Fine detail and smaller finished pieces | 1 or 2 | 26 |
| 28-count evenweave or linen, over two | A smooth look at the size of 14-count | 2 | 24 or 26 |
If you are new, start with 14-count. If small squares tire your eyes, go to 11-count: the pattern stays the same, it just comes out bigger. For more on strands, see how many strands for cross stitch.
Fabric color
White and cream are the easiest to see and suit most designs. Colored fabric can save hours of background stitching, and hand-dyed fabric adds a soft, mottled look. On dark fabric the holes are harder to see: stitch in good light, lay something white on your lap under the hoop, and consider one extra strand for coverage.
Buying tips
- Fabric is sold in pre-cut pieces (fat quarters and smaller) or by the yard.
- Check three things on the label: the count, the fiber (cotton, linen, blend) and the color name.
- Lost the label? Lay a ruler on the fabric and count the squares in one inch.
- Cut along a line of holes so your edges are straight.
🎓 Stitch Club members stitch the same motif on two counts and compare, with a practice pattern and the Fabric Explorer badge. See Week 4 of Cross Stitch School
Frequently asked questions
What is the best fabric count for beginners?
14-count Aida. The squares are easy to see, it suits most patterns, and you stitch with two strands.
Is a higher count better?
Not better, just smaller. A higher count gives finer detail and a smaller finished piece; a lower count gives bigger stitches that are easier to see.
What does 28-count over 2 mean?
The fabric has 28 threads per inch and each stitch covers two threads, so you get 14 stitches per inch, the same size as 14-count Aida.
Can I stitch a pattern on a different count than it says?
Yes. The pattern works on any count; only the finished size changes. Work out the new size before you buy fabric.